Many experts say that the best way of getting rid of drafts and the freezing timber windows in the winter is to install plastic windows. However, few can afford it. Installation of plastic windows – pleasure is quite expensive, and not all residents of urban apartments tend to replace conventional wood windows on the fashionable PVC. Wooden windows also have a huge advantage – they "breathe" without requiring constant ventilation and creating a feeling of stuffiness in the room. So you've decided to leave everything as it was the first autumn frosts and already "knocking" at your windows. What should I do? – It is necessary to prepare for the cold weather and thoroughly insulate windows.
There are several ways warming wooden windows. But before you choose one of them, define the reason why the windows let the cold air. Usually, the reason for this is the ability of the tree crack and buckle under the weather, which leads subsequently to the formation of cracks and gaps between the frame and the frame and between glass and frame. So, if the reason for this gap between the glass and frame, you rassteklit need to strengthen the frame and glass silicone sealant, and then fix it bead. If the cause of drafts – curvature of the frame, you will need to strengthen the corners of the frame with metal corners. Thereafter begin to address the second reason – to get rid of gaps between the frame and window box. Just do not forget to prepare a window frame: free of debris, clean and degrease the end of the frame (If required for attaching the seal). Thus, the frame is ready, now get down to the choice of insulation options window. One of the fastest, but a relatively inefficient way of warming the window – sealing the windows scotch tape (clear or simple a paint) or conventional plaster.
Thoroughly dry the structure, its vent, cover the impregnation – and re-examination will only need a 4 or 8 years (depending on when the deadline guarantees an antiseptic). More serious disease – ‘wet’ rot, damage wood by fungi, mold or bacteria. It not only spoils the appearance, but also destroys the fiber softens the wood. You click on a board with your finger, and it fails. In this case, you must remove the damaged area, cut out all the rot to solid wood, handle the rest of the old wood and make insertion of a new, and then cover all quality antiseptic.
The worst damage wooden structures causing white mushroom house (‘dry’ rot). It affects not only the tree, but even the brickwork, oak floor and chetyrehsantimetrovy it can destroy a month. In this case without a thorough ‘surgical’ intervention is necessary. Only after you have completely cut out all bionarost have done a thorough fungicidal wash, and close up cracks and crevices non-shrink filler, Box set from a healthy tree and struck a topcoat can be considered anti-rot completed. Insects, unlike microorganisms appear regardless of operating conditions and humidity. Here is a list key pests (furniture or house), barbel, bark and drevogryz.
And dangerous, not only bugs, but their larvae. Discover voracious insect is easy: they leave a small hole – ‘moves’. It is easy and will destroy pests: it is necessary to process each hole a special antiseptic solution and then cover the surface layer protects the new. Struggling with the enemies of the tree, do not forget: the most effective protection – completely prevent the defeat of wood. Experts believe that this is only possible in a systems approach: on the prepared surface treatment is applied, then the substrate that provides good traction primer and topcoat, and finally the very finish. Upon expiration of the protective layer of antiseptics should be updated. The only way you can permanently save the tree that brings so much joy and warmth to your house.
The process of 'dry' drying oils such as occurs due to evaporation of the solvent, and as a result of interaction processes oils with oxygen. Combined varnish marks R3, R5 designed for the manufacture of paints for interior and exterior. Combined varnish brands K2, K4, K12, K11, paint, used only for internal operations. Linseed oil 'Oksol B' is used for dilution to a viscosity of oil-based paints gustotertyh MF only for internal operations. LMS (polymerized linseed oil) is a natural substitute for linseed oil and is used for both domestic and for exterior colors.
Gliftalievaya linseed oil is made from vegetable oil, glycerine, etc. of the solvent content of no more than 50%. Pentaphthalic linseed oil is also made from an alkyd resin. Artificial drying oils (synthol, karbonol, etc.) do not contain any oils at all, or in small quantities. As for the quality they are far inferior to natural drying oil and oksolem.
Alkyd varnish – are solutions of alkyd resin modified oils. They are glyptal, pentaphthalic and ksiftalevye. By the way linseed oil are the so-called artificial drying oils, including oil-free products based on the polymerization of petroleum hydrocarbons, oil shale, and fish oils etc. Thus, oil paints are a mixture of pigments, fillers (talc, barium sulfate, barite) and linseed oil. State Standards issued by oil paints the following brands (depending on the type of film-forming substance): MA-021 – for natural drying oil; MA-025 – on a combined drying oil, GF-023 – on glyptal drying oil, PF-024 – on pentaphthalic drying oil. The number 2 indicates that the paint, varnish diluted appropriate, be used on any surface. Ready to eat paint hit the market are packed in containers of 0.5-3 liters. The labels stated purpose of paint, color, flow rate at 1 m surface with single and double layer coatings used thinners, etc. Should strictly adhere to these guidelines.